



Some of the samples I’ve been weaving for a workshop, an introduction to double weave and differential shrinkage.
Hand weaving in Aotearoa | New Zealand




Some of the samples I’ve been weaving for a workshop, an introduction to double weave and differential shrinkage.




A few photos of the samples I made for a workshop I ran last weekend, creating mini weaves using a cardboard loom.

Rivers – Metaphor for a Journey is an exhibition by the Professional Weavers Network of New Zealand
The show is on at the Aigantighe Art Gallery in Timaru until 22 March and then it’s coming up to the Franklin Arts Centre in Pukekohe. My two works in this exhibition were inspired by the Waiuku River, more commonly known as the Waiuku Estuary. The appearance of this tidal river changes over the day as the mudflats are revealed and then concealed by the movement of the water.


I used passementerie techniques to create my works, starting with creating twisted cords from hand-dyed corriedale wool. The browns were dyed using harakeke seedpods harvested from my garden and the blues are acid dyes.

You can see a glimpse of the river in the background of the pictures of the finished works.



I’ve been weaving, more tea towels. I really like the variations possible on one warp with the Bumberet weave structure, though I have tended to only use three treadling variations for the tea towels.




At the end of each warp I have played with other treadlings and weft colours, and I’ve made some of that fabric up into Christmas tree decorations. I also made the hanging cords from thrums from the warps.



That’s enough tea towels for a while, I’m planning some new projects. I may return to Bumberet as I also wove a sample warp with wool and it produced a few samples that I want to investigate further.


I decided to use up some cones of 8/2 cotton, predominantly shades of green, and weave some tea towels using bumberet weave. I didn’t bother to work out a colour sequence before winding the warp other than winding groups of three to work with the threading. However I was forced to ignore this plan and change colours part way through a group of three in a few places when I ran out of a colour. I was a bit worried when weaving the towels that this was a bad mistake and I should have planned the colours a bit better but once the towels were all finished I’m quite happy with the results.


Threading: point twill on 4 shafts Warp sett: 22 epi




References:
Handwoven March/April 2015
Weavers’ Issue 31
Heddlecraft Vol 6 Issue 1 Jan/Feb 2021
I’m weaving double two-tie samples, working my way through some of the drafts in Heddlecraft vol 4 issue 4. The warp is on an Ashford Katie loom that I bought secondhand a few months ago. It’s such an easy loom to take to weaving group meetings, compact when folded up and easy to carry in its bag, no more folding down the back seat of the car to fit my loom in.


Even though I am just following a draft, I have managed to make silly mistakes twice so far. Does anyone else keep weaving even though the sample does not look like the photo by convincing yourself that somehow it will look alright once it’s washed? It wasn’t until I left my weaving and then came back and reread the draft that I realised my mistake.

Fingers crossed I have learnt my lesson and will pay more attention in the future.
Some photos of samples I’ve been working on, I’m part of the Complex Weavers Dimensional Texture study group and our topic of study this year is Layer Interchange.
My first warp was 2 layers 10/2 cotton and 2 layers of R110/2 Tex corriedale. The wool layers are the only layers that interchange. The weft yarns were the same as the warp, and I also tried the cotton as a weft yarn on the wool layers to reduce the weft-wise shrinkage of those layers.I washed the samples in hot soapy water with agitation to cause shrinkage in the wool layers. After finishing the first sample I removed some warp threads from the left hand side, effectively moving the wool warp threads off centre



I wound a second warp using 20/2 cotton instead of 10/2.



Now I just need to decide on the final design and weave my samples to send to the other members of the study group.
I’ve been exploring weaving passementerie as it is the set topic for the group I’m in as part of Cross Country Weavers, a Creative Fibre group. The first step was creating some cords, mostly using 20/2 cottons.

Then it was on to the weaving, some of the braids I wove on my table loom and some on my floor loom. It was a lot of fun trying out different designs




Resources:
Passementerie by Elizabeth Ashdown
Handwoven Decorative Trim – An introduction to weaving passementerie trim by Robyn Spady
Weaving
Last month I attended a weaving workshop covering double weave, deflected double weave and differential shrinkage techniques. It was held as the part of the Auckland Creative Fibre Spring Education Festival and led by Agnes Hauptli. There were 10 of us and prior to the workshop we were supplied with pre-wound warps to dress our looms, a different one for each student. The workshop was run as a round-robin so that at the end of the workshop we all had a variety of samples to take home, as well as the remainder of the warp on our own looms to weave off. The samples were all wet finished and here are the results.












Watching
Unstable Design Lab Experimental Weaving Talks on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/@unstabledesignlab2756
Reading
Every year I like to follow the Advent Calendar by Byopia Press, this year the theme is Triangle. There is usually a mix of activities with the focus on paper crafts but last year there were recipes and knitting as well. https://byopiapress.wordpress.com/2024/12/01/byopia-press-advent-calendar-2024-day-one-and-a-simple-3d-star/
Back in February I wove a bunch of doubleweave vessels based on the instructions from VAV magazine Nr. 3 2023. I was using corriedale yarn from Anna Gratton instead of the yarn used in the magazine so had to experiment a bit to get the results I wanted. The basic method is to weave a tube, using different yarns and weave structures (plain weave and extended plain weave), which will give you the variations in the diameter of the vessel. Once off the loom you then gather the bottom up to make a base, tidy up the edges however you like and give it a hot wash in the washing machine until it’s felted to your liking. Once you remove it from the washing machine, you have to shape your rather sad looking tube and then leave it to dry.




So when I put on my first warp to further explore what I had been doing at the workshop with Stacey Harvey-Brown I decided to try make some more vessels but this time using 4 warp layers to weave a double layer tube, with the inner tube having a wool warp and the outer tube a cotton warp. The wefts were a mixture of cotton, paper, and wool. Once off the loom I gathered the bottom of the tube and then wet finished it by hand in hot soapy water until I was happy with the results. The shapes and textures of the vessels are caused by the differential shrinkage between the inner and outer tubes, different weft yarns and when and how the inner and outer layers are connected,. I particularly liked the effect the paper yarn produced when used in the weft, you can see that in the upper edges of the vessels.



